Bar end shifters install

You'll need a little ferruley adapter gidget there, which you may get with the shifters. Use bits of tape to hold it all in place, then re-wrap your handlebar tape over the outer to finish off. Thanks very much for responding. That makes sense. I'd be looking to get the actual shifters off ebay , and they seem to come always just as the shifters themselves. Smokin Joe Legendary Member. Location Bare headed cyclist, Smoker. You have a choice with the cable run, exit from beneath the tape just below the brake levers or take it all the way up the bars near the top of the tape.

The former is more efficient as the cable run is shorter, the latter looks neater. Location Never seen Smoking Joes latter and can't envision how the cable run works. The way I was trained to do it is to first of all cut off a section of handlebar each side equal to the length of the shifter body, install the shifters and tape the cables to the straight section of the drops. Run the cable in a degree loop from the lower straight section of the bar to the down tube stops.

I've got to install some on a bike soon and I'm really looking forward to it, haven't done bar-end shifters for ages. If you dig out some old photos of Tom Simpson you'll see what I mean, the cable exit point is more or less the same as with Ergo shifters.

That's brilliant. Many thanks to you both. I had a quick look through my albums but couldn't find any close ups of Tom Simpsons shifter set-up for some reason. Mickle, One here that shows Simpson's set up. Danny Legendary Member. Location York. Click to expand Then, without pedaling, shift so the lever is horizontal. This puts slack in the cable, which makes the shifter easier to take apart.

Examine the shifter. One side of it rotates with the shifter arm, and the other side does not. There will be two bolts, one on each side. Remove the bolt from the fixed non shifter arm side. Swing the shift lever aside. You should now be able to see down inside the handlebar to the clamp that holds the shifter in place. Loosen the clamp bolt 1 one! This should be enough to release the clamp. You don't want to overloosen the clamp as the parts may fall down inside the handlebar.

Just barely loose is all you need. Gently pull the shifter base up out of the handlebar. The handlebar grip will be gripping the cable housing, but a slow steady pull will allow you to pull it up enough to get it out.

Once it's out, there's no need to pull it any further. There are two pinch bolts in the new clamp. They cross the long curved slot in the clamp. The cable housing needs to slide through that slot, so temporarily remove the bolts. Orient the clamp so the open end will point slightly inward towards the middle of the trike when the clamp is on the end of the handlebar. With the clamp in that orientation, slide the cable housing through the slot in the clamp, all the way to the inside where the cable tunnel is.

Push the cable housing in to the tunnel and push the clamp down onto the end of the handlebar. Push the clamp down until the end of the handlebar is flush with the top of the clamp. Reinstall the clamp bolts and lightly clamp it to the handlebar while you reinstall the shifter.

Put the shifter clamp back into the end of the handlebar, and while gently pulling on the shifter cable, push the shifter base back into the handlebar until it seats. Align the shifter base so the swing of the shifter arm is where you want it and tighten the clamp bolt down inside the handlebar. Put the shifter arm back on the base.

There is usually a square or D shaped protrusion on the arm that needs to go back into a corresponding pocket on the side of the base.

Rotate the arm and snap it into the pocket. Reinstall the bolt that holds the arm to the base. Pull the shifter arm back to vertical to retension the cable. Loosen the bolts on the new clamp and install the L arm. Adjust the height and angle of the arm and the clamp, then tighten the clamp bolts. Once they take tension, tighten them alternately until they are both medium tight. All Done! Now, mount whatever you'd like! Machined from T6 aluminum, anodized black.

Conversely, bar-end shifters often hit external objects and even the rider when manipulating the bike around. Downtube shifters are as simple as shifters can be. Subsequently, they can be installed fairly quickly. Tighten the shifters to the downtube. Make sure that the shifters are parallel to the downtube in their starting position. Insert a gear cable into the front downtube shifter.

The front shifter is installed. As the name suggests, a bottom pull derailleur is a model whose cable pulls from underneath the bottom bracket. There are also top pull derailleurs that operate with a cable pulling from the top. If you have a road bike or a touring bike with downtube shifters, it will have a bottom pull front derailleur, unless someone has replaced it. The installation of the right shifter is similar.

You have to slide the gear cable through the shifter, under the downtube, under the drive-side chainstay, and then clamp it with the rear derailleur pinch bolt. The rear shifter requires a short piece of cable housing running from the cable stop on the chainstay to the barrel adjuster of the derailleur.

Downtube shifters are discrete and do not widen the profile of the bicycle excessively. The number one downfall of downtube shifters is that the rider has to move their hand away from the handlebars to shift. To install downtube shifters, you will need a frame with braze-on bosses on the downtube or a separate clamp with mounts on it. Bar-end shifters are different. However, you will still need cable stoppers on the downtube because the most common bar-end shifter set-up uses the following routing schemas:.

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