Manual balancing dampers airduct

If you have the option of putting it closer to the furnace then do that. It will be just as effective and you will have no noise. Asked on by Brian 2 Q: On a 6 damper in the full closed position, how much airflow is allowed to pass?? A: Depends on the pressure. These are not meant to be full closure. There is a gap all around the balancing door so with high pressure a fair bit of air would go by.

Asked on by Andy 3 Q: How do I determine from the wing nut position on the outside of the ductwork whether the damper is closed or open? A: At one end of the slot that the wingnut slides in is a pointer that indicates the position of the damper. Do I simply cut the duct and install it in-line, using a clamp or tape?

The blower would spin, no air would move through the furnace, the heat exchanger would get hot, and the fan limit switch would shut off the system. Home heating and cooling question Closing off registers, in the basement and bedrooms, wouldn't this be a strain on the heating and cooling systems, and wouldn't it impact the running efficiency of the system?

Anon Yes. Try partly closing supply dampers to the too-hot or too-cold heating or air conditioning zones. Also check for obstructed ductwork and for incomplete or inadequate air returns. I have three zones, two on the main floor and one in the basement.

All my dampers are normally open. I have tree thermostats that are programmed to control this imbalance of temperature. Does the normally-open vs normally closed dampers affect this? I have three zones, two on the main floor and on in the basement. I have tree thermostats and try to control this imbalance of temperature. Varghese Interesting question about air flow. If the air flow volume really we could say its speed across the cooling coil is too great for the design of the cooling system then the rate of removal of heat from the air and moisture from the air will be slowed.

A result may be that the system has to run longer to satisfy the thermostat. However air flow that is too slow is also a problem, not only resulting in inadequate cooling but possibly also cooling coil icing and blockage. Sorry, I just can't say with so little information. It is a bit unusual to connect return air from two different systems - but I suspect there was a reason since extra trouble and cost would be involved. Perhaps the return air to one or both of the air handlers was inadequate.

Without a more thoughtful look at the site and its duct work, air handlers, room layout, air movement, and other stuff I haven't thought of, it's just speculation. A start might be to actually look at the duct layout, the air handler sizes, capacity, location, duct sizes, and in particular the return air inlet locations and duct sizes.

It'd be easy to shut off one of the return air sections say the downstairs and then see if the upstairs air handler is air starved. Just what a shared return does to indoor air heating or cooling adequacy is something I can't pose with just the data in your note. Kudos to the inspector for recognizing something a bit out of the ordinary. Manual dampers are turned by a handle on the exterior of a duct.

Automatic dampers are used to regulate airflow continuously and are operated by electric or pneumatic motors, in turn, controlled by a thermostat or building automation system. Automatic or motorized dampers might likewise be controlled by a solenoid, and the degree of airflow adjusted, possibly according to signals from the thermostat going to the actuator of the damper in order to regulate the flow of air-conditioned air in order to effect climate control.

Likewise known as a volume balancing damper, air control dampers are utilized in situations to control airflow and are considered medium to strong.

Readily available in the parallel blade when greater control is required near the top end of the damper or for systems needing position operation fully opened or fully closed , along with opposed blade in applications where it is necessary to preserve even distribution of air downstream from the damper.

The usage of dampers can be typically seen in many zoning or zone control systems, an essential part of those industries. It is where gases and liquids are moved through different pipes and ducts to control the flow of materials. Many air control dampers are available in various sizes and shapes like square, circular, rectangular, and backdraft. In addition, many damper locations, the ducting structure, and its purpose altogether determine its type.

Therefore, when it comes to dampers for HVAC application, you can find many variations, and you can operate them through different means. It includes manual, mechanical, and automatic methods, and some damper types are the following:. Butterfly flat dish damper is known to be designed for high efficiency that has less maintenance.

It usually uses a hinge built to fill up the duct when properly lined to restrict airflow accurately. This kind of damper can completely stop the airflow and is also available with multiple blades when necessary.

Another vital thing to notice is that they can prevent backdraft by only enabling the air to flow in a single direction. This makes it a better option for fire prevention and heating application. Blade dampers are originally made of thin metal plates to regulate airflow inside the air handling equipment properly. In addition, there is the presence of blade dampers that contain blades that move in an opposite direction. Blade dampers are designed for great metering and control of the HVAC systems, and they are equipped with greater strength, superior sealing capacity, and usually produce less noise.

Guillotine dampers are known for their capability to have the best Seal possible, and they are usually kept in place to block the airflow completely.

However, they can also be used at any place where the proper isolation is required during their regular maintenance or entry to a specific duct behind the required media source. Louver dampers are mainly used For the quick response time and vital air blocking properties.

This kind of damper usually uses flat blades on hinges to fill the size of the duct, and they are one of the most frequently used HVAC dampers.

If you deal with Inlet vane dampers, these are mainly used on fan inlet applications that usually provide a better flow of the materials and pressure control. Their usage can sometimes be seen in many HVC settings where a facility needs full regulation for ventilation. When they are correctly working altogether, your home is expected to be in an excellent state as far as its heating and air conditioner go. One set of HVAC systems that can help your system meet your indoor space temperature needs is damp.

The most helpful start to understanding how it works is first by mentioning what they are. They are the ones responsible for helping regulate the temperature around your commercial buildings or your personal home. They serve as valves that decide how much heated or cooled air is required to feed into different areas of your ductwork.

So the function of manual and motorized dampers varies depending on the type of damper you have. HVAC dampers come in two types, and this is manual and motorized. Manual dampers work by the homeowner twisting a screw to regulate the airflow that goes into specific areas. On the other hand, motorized damper functions on its own, and motorized dampers are more convenient for homeowners with a programmed HVAC zoning system. The first step is to find your dampers, and this can sometimes be challenging for many homeowners.

For example, older homes might have dampers, but some drywall already blocked them after many renovation projects. So you might need to check the old blueprints to see where the dampers will be.

If you cannot find it or tear the wall down to reach it, you might have to resign yourself to adjusting the vents properly. You should also be aware that there are homes that do not have the balancing damper, and sometimes it is more cost-efficient to remove this from the whole system. Then again, some more considerate contractors put a vent in the access panel that is covering it. This covering is usually the part of the duct system with a damper while still keeping it accessible.

You can easily shine a light through the vents to try and find it, and once you find the damper, it will get easier from there. Adjusting the balancing damper is like turning a lever to open and close it, and to be able to achieve that, you need to make sure you are really adjusting the dampers. You do not want to change the wrong part of the HVAC system, so you need to label the balancing dampers.

Make sure you have all the information where it leads, like kitchen, bedroom, and others. At the same time, this might be tedious for many since they have to open and close their dampers.

Once you can identify what dampers are for and what effect they will be in different parts of the room, it is time to figure out how to maintain them properly. First, you need to make sure that you know what to do to make hot or cold airflow in a particular room properly. Again, labeling might be your best route, but there are two essential rules that you need to remember here. This can only mean that the attic will be the hottest part of the house while your basement will be cold.